The culture of Carolina BBQ dates back to at least the 17th century. It is steeped with traditions including the famed Eastern Carolina vinegar sauce or mop and the art of cooking whole hogs over pits fired with wood coals in proverbial low and slow fashion.

Promoted largely through the 1800s by German immigrants who spread their love of pork across the Carolinas, especially North Carolina, Whole Hog cooking morphed to a preference for cooking shoulders as you move to the Lexington, NC area.

Barbecue in the Carolinas has, sadly, begun to shift and change with the times, but in some select locales, there are traditionalists old and new who are shunning gas and electric cooking means in favor of using just wood, fire, smoke, and time.

In this podcast episode, I talk with John Shleton Reed about Carolina BBQ history, where BBQ sits today both regionally and nationally, and what he and his compatriots are doing to preserve the Southern Tradition of Barbecue.

John Shelton Reed is a true Southern gentleman scholar. He grew up in Kingsport, Tennessee, studied at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, and received his Ph.D. from Columbia University. His books and writings covering the history and culture of the south can be found across more than twenty books covering the subject, not the least of which includes Holy Smoke: The Big Book of North Carolina Barbecue and his most recent BBQ related text, Barbecue: a Savor the South Cookbook (Savor the South Cookbooks).

He has been a Guggenheim Fellow, a Fellow of the National Humanities Center, and twice a Fellow of the Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences. He has lectured at over 300 colleges and universities in the U.S. and abroad, including a number of universities in India as a Fulbright Distinguished Lecturer, and he has held visiting positions at many institutions, including the Hebrew University of Jerusalem, the Institute of United States Studies at the University of London, and All Souls College, Oxford University.

He spent 1996-97 at Cambridge University as the Pitt Professor of American History and Institutions and Fellow of St Catharine’s College. He taught for some years at the University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill, retiring in 2000 as William Rand Kenan Jr. Professor of sociology and director of the Howard Odum Institute for Research in Social Science. He helped to found the university’s Center for the Study of the American South and the quarterly Southern Cultures.

Episode Summary

During this exploration, John and I discuss the nature and history of Carolina Barbecue and some of the early figures who helped put this style of low and slow pork cuisine on the map. We also discuss the state of barbecue today, competition BBQ – related to the Kansas City Barbeque Society – and what that means for BBQ culture, and branch out to refer to other barbecue styles, namely Texas-style barbecue.

What You’ll Discover

The origins of Carolina barbecue from Eastern to Western Carolina and on into South Carolina
How John become acquainted with Carolina-style barbecue and came to author his epic history on the subject
Where and how hush puppies became standard side items at Carolina barbecue joints
The impact German immigrants made on barbecue in the Carolinas
Just how closely linked the two predominant style of North Carolina barbecue are to one another
How competition barbecue is helping spread the love of barbecue, so long as you like it Kansas City-style
The origins of Mustard Sauce and why you don’t want to use it if you’re competing, no matter how much you love it
Where there’s great “transplant” barbecue in Downtown San Francisco – cooked on all wood, no electric or gas
What North Carolina’s tourism board can learn from Texas when it comes to supporting and promoting its unique barbecue tradition
How you can earn instant appreciation from TrueCue.org approved pitmasters, just by asking to see their pits

People, Places, and Things of Interest

Complimentary Podcast Episodes

Questions, Comments or Suggestions?

Have a question or a podcast guest suggestion? Please leave me a message on my contact page. You can also find me on Twitter and via the BBQ Beat Facebook Page.

Be Sure to Listen to More Episodes!

If you enjoyed this episode of the BBQ Beat Podcast, you can see the full podcast archive here. Or, simply catch up on some of the other most popular BBQ podcast conversations listed below.

John Scharbauer on 138 Years of Cattle Ranching, Progress, and Riding for the Brand
In this episode, you’ll get a fantastic history lesson on the Scharbauer family as well as a behind-the-scenes look at their storied 138 year old cattle business. Keep Reading »
KCBS is Celebrating 35 Years and Wants You to Join the Fun
Celebrating 35 years of sanctioning World Class competition BBQ events across the globe is a big deal, and the Kansas City Barbeque Society wants you to join in the fun! Keep Reading »
Talking with Chris Marks of Three Little Pigs Rubs and Sauces
In this episode, I talk with 9-time World BBQ Champion Chris Marks of Three Little Pigs Rubs and Sauces. Some great info here! Keep Reading »
Talking with Jason Hardee About The Rufus Teague BBQ Throwdown
Jason Hardee sits down with me to discuss the Rufus Teague BBQ Throwdown series, the BBQ Shootout series, the importance of family and more. Keep Reading »
Grilling Up Meat District Delights with Zack Phillips
Talking Tri-Tip, Premium Burgers and more with Meat District Ambassador and Grilling Enthusiast Zack Phillips. Keep Reading »
Talking Traeger Grill Patent Litigation with BBQ Expert Derrick Riches
BBQ Expert Derrick Riches and I talk about the patent litigation currently pending between Traeger Grills and Green Mountain Grills. Keep Reading »
BBQGuys.com Randy Watson is Living his Best Live Fire Life
Learn why Randy Watson of BBQGuys.com is living his live-fire cooking dream and how you can take steps to achieve yours! Keep Reading »
Always Hustling – Ray Sheehan on Crafting Flavors and Promoting Your BBQ Brand
With 20 years in the food business and a work ethic founded on the lessons learned on his Grandfather’s farm, New Jersey native Ray Sheehan of BBQ Buddha knows what it takes to craft creative BBQ Flavors and promote a BBQ brand. Keep Reading »
Talking with Robert F. Moss, Author of Barbecue: The History of an American Institution
This episode of The BBQ Beat Podcast features southern food and culture historian Robert F. Moss, BBQ Editor for Southern Living Magazine and author of Barbecue: The History of an American Institution. Keep Reading »
BBQ in Britain with Kevin Edge of Edge BBQ
Talking with Kevin Edge of Edge BBQ (UK) about his British BBQ journey, his growing success on Instagram, and his two sociopathic chickens! Keep Reading »